Smallshaws brings new life to Branxton’s historic Commercial Hotel

Branxton may not be the first place that comes to mind when planning where to eat in the Hunter Valley, but Smallshaws is giving us a pretty good reason to change that.

One of Branxton’s most recognisable historic buildings, the Commercial Hotel on Maitland Street, has entered a new chapter as Smallshaws – a cafe by day and restaurant by night.

The building’s new lease on life is courtesy of Cam Willis  and his partner Lily who as Cam explains does an incredible job of directing his chaos. 

Originally from Armidale, Cam has always had a love of country life, food and coffee, after years of learning the ropes in Melbourne from a list of venues spanning Pillar Of Salt, Top Paddock, Tall Timber, Hanoi Hannah and AVC’s Harlow, he wanted to create something special for the local community.

Despite living just down the road for the past four years, Cam admits he still has some time to go before he can officially call himself a Branxton local.

“My landlord tells me that’ll take 65-plus years.”

Local credentials aside, Cam’s interest in the old Commercial had been brewing long before he got the keys. Building on from the way that Maitland St Collective utilised the space, Cam and the team worked incredibly hard to bring the iconic building back to life in a way that does its history justice.

“I came across the venue in 2022 as Maitland St Collective, and was immediately obsessed with the heritage and potential for the venue. In the car I took to a notepad dreaming up ideas and collaborations that could contribute to building on the rich history of the hotel and offering to the local community. 

When the time came that I was offered to take the reins, I couldn’t refuse. The tattered notebook in hand, and just about any length of reclaimed timber we could turn into a bench, shelf or table, we got to work.”

Fast-forward to January 16 2026 and Cam finally got his chance. With plenty of the planning already done, Cam and his crew – Lily, Kirra & Tom of Hunter Wood Furniture, Jason & Julie of Branxton Joinery, and friends Josh and Max – gutted and fitted out the building in just two months, all while continuing to run Meltdown at Huntlee. 

Officially opening in mid-March, the renovation retains plenty of the building’s original character – tin ceilings, stained-glass windows, polished floorboards and that grand staircase to the cellar that will one day house some more seating for late night drinks and music– while giving the old Commercial a much more contemporary feel.

During the day, Smallshaws serves breakfast and lunch from Wednesday through Sunday. 

On our visit one of the menu highlights included the Adobo pork benny – their answer to a big breakfast, with house-pressed hash, mustard greens picked from the garden and a generous helping of pork.

Cam did make a point of saying that his slightly chaotic way of operating usually means the menu can frequently change, which helps to not only keep the locals returning, but challenging the kitchen team, 

“We all like having the opportunity to impress and improve using what seasonable ingredients are available, so there are always a few new items to try alongside a few items that we wouldn’t dare take away from the regulars.”

Come Friday and Saturday evening, things shift into dinner mode.

The menu has been a work up between Cam and Chef Jamie Hartcher, and moves between Asian and Latin American flavours, and a reflection of the food they enjoy cooking and eating. Some dishes have been influenced by recipes and ideas Cam and Lily have picked up while travelling, while Jamie brings his own cooking experience and knowledge to the mix.

The result is a menu made for ordering however you feel like it.

“We’re spoiled for choice when it comes to food in the Hunter Valley so we wanted to offer something more on the casual side of your set-menu venues of Pokolbin and surrounds and go for a more relaxed, easy going approach, while still serving top-quality stuff but allowing people the freedom to choose their own adventure.

“Whether it’s all small plates, just drinks or a feast, we’re here to host and make sure you get the night you want.”

Start small with prawn toast and aji verde, pork and lemongrass chilli dumplings, pork sisig tacos or tuna ceviche. Larger plates include Peruvian-style chicken cooked over fire, braised lemongrass beef and chargrilled market fish such as the coffs harbour swordfish with soba noodles, pickled ginger and mushrooms.

The drinks menu is refreshingly small, and the wine list is largely curated by Lily as Cam explains, 

“The wine list focuses on smaller scale, independently owned producers of NSW wine that are often overlooked for wines produced by recognisable brands and regions to a larger market. We’re passionate about putting NSW wine in the spotlight, and having the opportunity to support local producers that have been supporting us along our journey is very meaningful.”

It’s also just the beginning for the sprawling old Commercial Hotel.

Cam says the plan is to keep listening to what locals want and gradually make use of more of the venue, with events, live music, Sunday sessions and additional spaces for people to hang out all on the radar.

“Plenty more to come.”

For now, whether you’re dropping in for breakfast, meeting over coffee or settling in for dinner and drinks, Smallshaws is giving Branxton something a little different – and us another reason to make the detour.

Editor’s note: This article was produced independently by the HUNTERhunter editorial team and is not paid or sponsored content.